Harrington and bomber describe families of jacket shapes, not complete specifications. Two garments with the same name can have different sleeves, linings, proportions and weather performance. Agree the details using drawings and measurements.
Choose the development route
| Route | What can change | What to confirm |
|---|
| Finished stock with branding | Usually labels or packaging | Permission to relabel, existing composition and available sizes |
| Existing pattern adapted for your order | Materials, trims and agreed design details | Pattern licence, fit approval and change limits |
| New pattern development | Shape and construction developed to your brief | Development fees, revisions, grading and file ownership |
Suppliers use the phrase private label differently. Ask for an explicit scope. An existing block may save work, but changing fabric weight, lining or insulation can alter fit and drape enough to require further sampling.
Specify the fit as a system
Decide whether the jacket is cropped or long, close or relaxed, and what the wearer will put underneath it. Provide a reference size and a measurement method for chest, body length, sleeve, shoulder or raglan position, bicep and hem.
For a ribbed hem, distinguish relaxed width from stretched width. Record where body length ends and whether it includes rib or collar. Letter sizes such as M and L do not define consistent dimensions across brands or countries.
At a fitting, close the jacket, reach forward, sit down and put hands into the pockets. Check sleeve entry over the intended mid-layer and whether the hem rides up. Approve grading beyond the base size rather than assuming one successful sample validates the range.
Match the materials to the intended use
Ask for composition, weight, usable width, finish and care recommendations for the actual shell article. Compare swatches for drape and handle. Cotton, wool blends and synthetics each have useful applications; a fibre name alone does not establish durability or quality.
Treat the lining, interlining and rib as separate components. Confirm sleeve friction, lining ease, rib recovery and how the combined garment behaves after the proposed care process. Have the supplier test the chosen interlining on the actual shell using the interlining maker's process guidance.
Resolve closures and pockets on the sample
Specify zipper type, length, colour and opening direction. A two-way zipper is a design choice, not a universal upgrade. Check operation while seated and with the jacket under normal tension. Confirm whether visible metal finishes match across zips, snaps and buttons.
For pockets, define opening size, depth, closure and reinforcement. Test the intended use with a phone or wallet rather than relying only on appearance. Inspect the inside for exposed edges, snag points and comfortable access.
Record label artwork, dimensions, placement and attachment. Keep branding separate from required product information. The EU's textile labelling guidance explains fibre-composition information and language requirements for the markets where the product is sold. Check other applicable product obligations separately.
Before bulk cutting, keep an approved pre-production sample, measurement chart, bill of materials and list of remaining exceptions. Ask for written agreement on substitutions, pattern use and repeat-order availability. Use the sample development guide to structure revisions.