There is no reliable per-piece price for a jacket without a specification and quantity. A lined wool coat, an unlined cotton overshirt and a taped shell use different materials and operations. Begin with an agreed bill of materials, or BOM, and ask what the quote includes.
Build the material list
Give every component an article reference, supplier or approved equivalent, unit of purchase, quantity per garment and unit cost. Include shell, lining, interlining, pocketing, insulation, rib, closures, thread, labels and packaging where applicable.
Record usable fabric width and whether consumption is net pattern usage or a gross purchase allowance. The gross figure may include cutting waste, shrinkage, check matching and other agreed allowances. Avoid adding the same allowance twice.
Use a transparent worked example
The following figures are invented to demonstrate the arithmetic. They are not Turkish market prices, supplier quotations or standard jacket consumption figures.
| Cost item | Illustrative calculation | Cost per jacket |
|---|
| Shell fabric | 1.8 m gross allowance × €6/m | €10.80 |
| Lining | 1.4 m gross allowance × €2/m | €2.80 |
| Interlining, pocketing and other materials | Combined allowance | €2.40 |
| Closures, labels and packaging | Combined allowance | €4.00 |
| Cutting, sewing and finishing | Agreed conversion charge | €12.00 |
| Supplier overhead and margin | Separately shown for this example | €6.00 |
| Illustrative garment subtotal | Sum of the rows above | €38.00 |
If development costs €600 and the order is 100 jackets, allocating that fee across the order adds €6 each. The resulting €44 excludes freight, insurance, testing outside the quote, customs charges, taxes and any extra material commitment. Suppliers may combine overhead and margin into other lines; the table is a comparison tool, not a required invoicing format.
Find the costs outside the unit price
Ask about sample revisions, grading, branded component setup, laboratory tests, inspection, export packing, bank fees and delivery. Establish whether these are included, optional or separately payable. Check the quote currency, validity and exchange-rate assumptions.
Minimum purchases also matter. If the garment allowance needs 180 metres but the mill sells 200 metres, the extra 20 metres creates a cash commitment. Agree whether it is charged now, included in the unit price, held for reorders or delivered to you.
Challenge consumption with the right evidence
Request a calculation based on the actual pattern, size mix and cuttable width. Check allowance for nap direction and check matching. Fabric weight in grams per square metre does not itself tell you the required linear metres.
Ask for alternative costings when changing a fabric, pocket or closure. Confirm how the alternative affects fit, durability and sample approval. Reducing measurements solely to hit a fabric target changes the product rather than making an equivalent jacket cheaper.
Compare production scopes and delivery terms
A sewing-only quote omits costs included in many full-package offers. Use the CMT and full-package responsibility guide to align the scope before comparing totals.
Ask the forwarder or broker to confirm freight and applicable destination charges for the actual shipment. Include non-recoverable costs in your landed-cost model and keep recoverable taxes separately identified. Do not infer customs treatment from the seller's address alone.
Compare quantities using total cash exposure
Request the same specification at your likely order sizes. Separate fixed development costs from variable garment costs and excess purchases. A lower price at 300 units is useful only if the additional stock has a credible sales plan.
Finish with a written quote linked to a tech-pack version, quantities by colour and size, approved materials, payment schedule and named delivery terms. That record makes later price or specification changes easier to identify.